Well, we've done it.
The Premier Crew team met tonight and
finalised our choice for this year's bottling, and I can reveal
that in the end the decision was unanimous. We hope we've chosen
a whiskey you'll all enjoy just as much if not more so than the
superlative casks bottled for the Grand Crew last year.
Here's
what we did:
We convened at Martin Bolsinger's house, and
Martin was a superb host, providing everything that hard-working
whiskey tasters might desire.
While we were momentarily
diverted by the drama of the World Cup, seven of us settled down
to business eventually and considered the samples from six
different 10 year old casks that had been offered to us by
Cooley.
These came in sets of two from three separate
rotations, but as we learnt last year, every cask is different
and must be considered on its own merits.
Having said that,
we all quickly dismissed the casks from rotation K00/3 - numbers
247 and 248 respectively. It was felt that k00/3 247 was
unbalanced, with an odd orange off-note that the whiskey didn't
benefit from. Its sister cask 248 came across as a dull version
of the usually lively and pleasant Locke's 8 year old single
malt, with a herbal quality that didn't lift it.
There was
a marked improvement with the next two casks from rotation
K00/4. Cask 374 from this rotation offered some acetic acid, a
bubblegummy candied sweetness, and a hint of liquorice or rye.
It was notably tannic and drying in the mouth. An interesting
and complex dram, but perhaps not as married together as we were
looking for.
By contrast, and this is what I mean about
adjoining casks having their own character, cask 375 was
splendidly balanced. Its nose offered malty brown bread and
citrus peel, as well as the fruity character one associates with
Tyrconnell. It was sweet on the palate with hints of dark
chocolate and tasty malt, which sustained in a long finish.
The
final two casks considered were from rotation K00/6. The first,
cask 712, offered a fresh and vibrant nose. Again that orange
liqueur quality came across on the nose and palate, but this
time it was well reined in and offered an eccentric and unique
characteristic to what was otherwise a nicely balanced dram.
The
final cask of the night was 713 from the same rotation. It had
big fruit on the nose, with some exotic lemongrass, candied
caramel, and an interesting spiritiness identified as floor
polish or paint thinners, not unlike that found in some older
pure pot still whiskeys. Definitely a rewarding nose.
On
the palate, the spiritiness transformed into a sugary sweetness,
held in balance with grapefruit-like citrus, strong malt, and a
herbal, almost menthol quality. It finished well, with hints of
bitter chocolate, citrus peel and grain.
All the whiskeys
were nosed and tasted at the strength the Premier Crew will be
bottled - 46 proof. Last time, for the Grand Crew, such was the
agonising that we were long into the night before making a final
decision. And that decision was in the end resolved by bottling
both the two favourite casks.
This time, the decision was
much easier to make. Cask K/006 712 was of interest to some
tasters, but all accepted that perhaps it was a little unusual
for general drinkers.
Cask K/004 375 was definitely in the
running, and everyone present accepted that it was a more than
decent heir to the Grand Crew whiskeys bottled last year.
However
in the end, the unanimous choice was the last dram of the night
- Cask k/006 713. It had the perfect combination of balance and
complexity that makes it suitable for general drinking and the
appreciation of aficionados.
Hopefully, when the cask is
bottled and made available to members later in the Summer,
you'll all agree!